作者:常进

来源:公众号“城市遗产与社区”

到过山西晋祠的游客,都会记住导游总结的这座皇家祭祀园林的“三宝”和“三绝”——前者指圣母殿、献殿和鱼沼飞梁,均为国内古代建筑的典型代表。

Visitors who have ever been to Jinci Temple in Shanxi Province will remember the "Three Treasures" and the "Three Wonders" of this royal memorial garden summarized by the tour guides. The “Three Treasures” are the Holy Mother Hall, the Offerings Hall and the Flying Bridge across the Fish Pond. All of them are typical representatives of ancient architecture in China.

后者指宋代彩塑、周柏和难老泉,各有其奇特之处。

And the “Three Wonders” includes the Figures of Maidservants of the Song Dynasty , the Zhou Cypress and the Never-aging Spring, all of which are fantastic.

它们都有千年以上的历史,让人好奇的是,它们如何穿越风雨、战乱、地震以及人为的干扰,还能与今人对话?

These antiquities all have a history of over a thousand years. What arouses people’s curiosity is how they survived storms, wars, earthquakes, and human destroy, and still sit here today.

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圣母殿檐角

对于“三宝”来说,首要因素应当是建筑本身的科学构造,否则早已了无痕迹。

For the “Three Treasures”, the primary factor is the scientific construction of the buildings, otherwise they would have reduced to ruins.

以鱼沼飞梁为例,它建在主殿圣母殿前,作为殿前平台用。为了在下方泉水——鱼沼上架设平台,古人将极耐腐蚀的石柱立在水中,其上再架斗拱,承接梁、额与横梁。

Take the Flying Bridge across the Fish Pond as an example. It was built in front of the Holy Mother Hall as a platform.In order to erect the platform upon the Fish Pond, the ancient people put extremely corrosion-resistant stone pillars in the water, and then erected the brackets on them to link with the beams, the lintels and the cross beams.

现有我们所见的石柱和斗拱依旧保留了以前的原貌。

The existing stone pillars and brackets retain their original appearance.

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鱼沼飞梁

其次是历代不断的修葺、重建和扩建。

Secondly, they have been well preserved because of repairing, rebuilding and expanding through the dynasties.

鱼沼飞梁中的桥面、栏杆并没有留存下来,现在的栏杆是建国后按营造法式仿制的,桥面由木板改为石材。

The current railings of the Flying Bridge across the Fish Pond were copied according to the ancient official building standards after the founding of the People’s Republic of China, and the bridge deck was changed from wooden boards to stone ones.

始建于南宋(1127-1279)的献殿,其主梁最近的一次维护是1955年,按原木料原式样更换。

The main beams of the Offerings Hall, which was built in the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279), were replaced with beams of the original style and original wood in 1955.

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献殿

圣母殿的最早记载见于北魏郦道元的《水经注》。但在宋太平兴国年间(980),晋阳城被毁;太平兴国九年(984),修葺晋祠(今圣母殿)并刻碑记事。

The earliest record of the Holy Mother Hall can be found in Li Daoyuan’s TheCommentary on the Water Classicin the Northern Wei Dynasty. However, Jinyang City was destroyed during the rule of Emperor Taizong in the Song Dynasty under the reign title of Taipingxingguo (980). In the ninth year of Taipingxingguo (984), Jinci Temple (now the Holy Mother Hall) was repaired and a monument was erected.

自此,宋、元、明、清历代都进行了重修,并在它的周边新建其它建筑。

From then on, it was rebuilt in the Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties, and new buildings were constructed in its vicinity.

比如,宋仁宗天圣年间(1023-1032),整修圣母殿和鱼沼飞梁,圣母殿内塑43尊彩塑泥像。

For example, the Holy Mother Hall and the Flying Bridge across Fish Pond were repaired, and 43 figures of maidservants were sculpted during the Tiansheng years reigned by Emperor Renzong in the Song Dynasty (1023-1032).

宋徽宗崇宁年间(1102-1106),重修圣母殿,赐号“慈庙”。

During the Chongning years (1102-1106) reigned by Emperor Huizong in the Song Dynasty, the Holy Mother Hall was rebuilt and given the name "Cimiao” (Temple of Mercy).

元顺帝至正年间(1342),太原地震,波及晋祠,圣母殿又一次重修。

During the Zhizheng years (1342) reigned by Emperor Shundi in the Yuan Dynasty, the Holy Mother Hall was rebuilt because of the earthquake in Taiyuan.

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圣母殿牌匾

1949年以后山西省或太原市设立的政府管理部门或单位,如文物管理委员会、建设局、园林局及晋祠博物馆等,接过了文物遗存保护、展示和园区新建等职责。

The governmental agencies established by Shanxi Province or Taiyuan City, such as the Heritage Management Committee, the Construction Bureau, the Bureau of Landscape and Forestry and Jinci Temple Museum, etc. have assumed responsibilities of protecting and exhibiting antiquities, building new constructions and so on since 1949.

我们现在所见的晋祠大门即是1964年新建的。

The gate of Jinci Temple that we see today was built in 1964.

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泥塑

除了古建筑,晋祠还集纳了雕塑、铸造艺术品、碑刻、诗文匾联、古树名木等丰富多元的文物,它们的保护需要因材而施。

Besides the ancient buildings, Jinci Temple boasts various antiques as well, including sculptures, art castings, inscriptions, plaques and couplets inscribed with poems and ancient trees, etc. Protection measures are tailored to their properties.

为了减少光线、有害气体和颗粒对宋代彩绘泥像产生的腐蚀,圣母殿内厅多年前就已关闭,游客只能在门槛外观察。

In order to reduce the corrosion caused by light, harmful gases and particles on the painted clay figures of the Song Dynasty, the inner hall of the Holy Mother Hall was closed many years ago, and visitors can only appreciate the figures from outside the threshold.

不过,对于这类不可靠近、不可移动的静默中的文物,现在已经有了让它们在虚拟世界“复活”的很多实例,三维、多媒体等技术的应用,让人们得以从各个角度仔细观摩古人的神态,想像他们的生活状态。

Nevertheless, today specialists can revive the static antiquities which cannot be approached or moved in the virtual world through such technologies as 3D and multimedia. Thus, visitors can appreciate these ancient figures from different angles and imagine their life.

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楹联

晋祠进入古树名木目录的有90余株,其中千年以上树龄的30株。

The catalogue of old and famous trees includes over 90 trees of Jinci Temple, of which 30 trees are more than 1000 years old.

据晋祠博物馆人士向媒体透露,他们曾对古树做过“B超”——用无损检测技术,利用雷达监测等装置,对树洞和根系进行扫描。

According to the personnel of Jinci Temple Museum, they once examined these old trees by NDT technology (non-destructive testing technology). They scanned tree holes and roots by radar monitoring and other devices.

再根据古树生长情况,制定不同保护方案,如有的进行引根复壮、立地环境改良,有的进行树体防腐固化、树洞修补,有的增设支撑或牵拉装置等。当然还有日常的防病治虫等工作。

Then based on the growth of old trees, they developed different conservation programs. For example, besides daily prevention and control of diseases and pests, some trees need nourish and rejuvenate roots and improve the growing environment, some need apply preservative and curing agent and repair tree holes, and some need set supporting or pulling devices additionally, etc.

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西周柏树
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隋唐国槐

清代有人赞称:三晋之胜,以晋阳为最,而晋阳之胜,全在晋祠。

People in the Qing Dynasty eulogized that the most beautiful place in Three Jin ( the ancient name of Shanxi Province) was Jinyang (the ancient name of Taiyuan City), while Jinci Temple was the most picturesque place in Jinyang.

背靠悬翁山,面朝东方而建的晋祠,深藏于中国北方,却能留存至今,成为古建和园林的典型代表、“古代文明集大成者”,看来并非偶然。

Built with a backdrop of Hanging Jar Mountain and facing east, the Jinci Temple is located in the hinterland of northern China. It is not just a coincidence that Jinci Temple has been well preserved till today and become the representative of ancient architecture and gardens and “ the epitome of ancient culture”.