都说“食在扬州，早上皮包水，晚上水包皮”。这话我琢磨了三年，终于在今年春天狠下心来，连滚带爬地把扬州城里的老字号吃了个遍。从清晨五点的蟹黄汤包，到深夜十点的虾籽馄饨，我这胃啊，愣是被扬州人伺候得服服帖帖。9家百年老店，一口一口吃出来的经验，哪家包子皮薄馅大，哪家干丝刀工最绝，哪家老鹅最香，全在这了。别急着去排队，看完我这篇，你少走弯路，多长二两肉，值了。
从早茶滚到宵夜，我替你把扬州这9家百年老店吃透了
第一站：清晨五点·富春茶社——老扬州的“皮包水”从这儿开始
天还没亮透，富春的蒸笼已经白雾翻腾了。这家1885年开张的老店，是扬州早茶的“扛把子”。我点了三丁包、千层油糕、烫干丝，配上一杯魁龙珠。三丁包里的鸡丁、肉丁、笋丁咬下去层次分明，油糕甜而不腻，一层一层撕着吃最过瘾。别小看那碟烫干丝，刀工能把一块豆腐干片成28片，再切成细丝，堆成一座小山，浇上麻油酱油，入口绵软又带点嚼劲。唯一要提醒你：周末七点以后去，排队能排到你怀疑人生。
第二站：上午八点·冶春茶社——乾隆爷打卡过的河畔早茶
冶春和富春，就像扬州的“甜咸之争”，各有拥趸。冶春靠着护城河，坐在临窗位置，一边吃包子一边看画舫慢慢摇过去，那叫一个惬意。他家的蟹黄汤包是一绝——皮薄得透光，用吸管戳破一个小口，金黄汤汁“滋溜”一下涌进嘴里，鲜得我眯起了眼睛。记住口诀：“轻轻提，慢慢移，先开窗，后喝汤。”别学我第一口就咬，烫得直跳脚。
第三站：上午十点·蒋家桥饺面店——本地人蹲着也要吃的虾籽饺面
从冶春出来溜达十分钟就到蒋家桥。这家店一百多年了，环境谈不上精致，但烟火气浓得化不开。一碗虾籽饺面，馄饨加阳春面，汤底是用河虾籽熬的，黑乎乎的却鲜掉眉毛。馄饨皮薄肉紧实，面条是碱水细面，口感偏硬，配一勺辣椒油，呼噜呼噜吃下去，额头冒汗。老板娘端碗的架势像个武林高手，四碗面一手端，稳得很。
第四站：中午十二点·菜根香饭店——淮扬菜的老祖宗
午饭得吃顿正经的。菜根香1930年代就名震上海滩，他家的“镇江肴肉”晶莹剔透，蘸着镇江香醋和姜丝，入口即化；“清炒虾仁”颗颗饱满，只加了盐和一点点黄酒，吃的是虾本身的甜。最让我惊艳的是“大煮干丝”——比早茶那碗豪华多了，火腿丝、鸡丝、虾仁、青菜心铺了满满一层，汤底是老母鸡和火腿吊的高汤，喝一口，五脏六腑都舒坦了。
第五站：下午两点·大麒麟阁——老扬州的糖担子
吃完正餐，该吃甜点了。大麒麟阁开业于1901年，扬州人办年货的首选。他家的京果粉、麻油馓子、金刚脐，都是儿时味道。我买了一块“桂花云片糕”，薄如蝉翼，入口即化，桂花的香气在嘴里散开，配一壶绿茶，刚好解了午饭的油腻。临走还捎了两盒“蛋黄酥”，油皮酥得掉渣，回家给爸妈，他们连说“就是这个味”。
第六站：下午四点·陈氏鸭油干拌面——藏在巷子里的百年传奇
这家店下午四点才开门，卖完就收摊，任性得很。一碗干拌面，灵魂是鸭油和秘制酱油，面条筋道，每一根都裹满了油亮亮的酱汁，撒上一把葱花和胡椒粉，香得隔壁小孩都馋哭了。配一碗鸭血粉丝汤，鸭血嫩滑，粉丝爽口，汤头清澈见底。老板是个话不多的中年人，看我拍照还特意把面拌得更漂亮些——扬州人的讲究，藏在细节里。
第七站：傍晚六点·忘不了老鹅——没有一只鹅能活着离开扬州
扬州人一年吃掉近千万只鹅，这话不夸张。忘不了老鹅开了上百年，从一个小推车做到现在好几家分店。我买了半只盐水鹅，鹅肉紧实不柴，皮薄脂肪少，卤水是秘制的，咸香中带着一丝丝甜。老板切鹅的刀法像在表演，片片均匀，连骨头都剁得整整齐齐。配上一碗白米饭，浇一勺卤汁，我能吃三碗。
第八站：晚上八点·皮包水——汤包和评弹更配哦
别误会，这不是早茶店，而是晚上专门做汤包和淮扬小点的老字号。他家的“月牙蒸饺”形状像月亮，皮薄馅多，肉馅里加了皮冻，蒸出来一包汁水。最特别的是店里有扬州评弹表演，老先生抱着琵琶唱《玉蜻蜓》，吴侬软语听不太懂，但那个调调配上热腾腾的蒸笼，氛围感拉满。
第九站：深夜十点·必香居——虾籽馄饨收尾，圆满
最后一站，我选了必香居的虾籽馄饨。这家店24小时营业，是扬州人的深夜食堂。馄饨皮薄如纸，肉馅紧实弹牙，汤底同样是虾籽熬的，但比蒋家桥的更清淡些。我坐在窗边，看街上行人渐少，路灯把梧桐树的影子拉得老长。一碗馄饨下肚，从早五点到晚十点，9家店，20多道菜，我这趟“扬州美食马拉松”，总算跑完了。http://news.ybzskjllc.com/Article/details/281943249.sHtML
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结语：
说真的，写到最后一家，我又饿了。扬州这地方吧，别的本事没有，就是能把你的胃伺候得服服帖帖。这9家店，每一家都是百年的底子，味道稳得像老城墙，但你得找对门、排对队、点对菜，才能吃到精髓。我替你踩过的坑、流过的口水、长过的肉，都化成这几千个字了。你要是按我这篇去吃，回来记得告诉我——你最爱哪一家？或者，你发现了我没吃到的隐藏宝藏？评论区见，我等着被你馋https://github.com/leematthew10/xhtlle/blob/main/keke_656661.md
https://github.com/hawkinsrenee247/aaontk/blob/main/keke_729007.md
https://github.com/smithrichard118/ljdvnl/blob/main/keke_874505.md
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https://github.com/chanjoel249/rsmeqg/blob/main/keke_724840.md
https://github.com/huffmanjohn396/evdwom/blob/main/keke_502498.md
https://github.com/burnsstephanie412/mnuozc/blob/main/keke_051818.md
https://github.com/armstrongrobert23/lhboev/blob/main/keke_426831.md
https://github.com/hawkinsrenee247/aaontk/blob/main/keke_402571.md
https://github.com/smithrichard118/ljdvnl/blob/main/keke_375387.md
https://github.com/calhounmarvin849/vwqqfq/blob/main/keke_257456.md
https://github.com/mccoybeth646/sekplq/blob/main/keke_315932.md
https://github.com/perezrobert543/gtkcba/blob/main/keke_523768.md
https://github.com/frederickkeith158/fnhgns/blob/main/keke_966226.md
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https://github.com/smithrichard118/ljdvnl/blob/main/keke_100471.md
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https://github.com/armstrongrobert23/lhboev/blob/main/keke_202261.md
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https://github.com/cabrerajessica433/abvzdu/blob/main/keke_949544.md
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https://github.com/burnsstephanie412/mnuozc/blob/main/keke_227312.md
https://github.com/calhounmarvin849/vwqqfq/blob/main/keke_800632.md
https://github.com/mccoybeth646/sekplq/blob/main/keke_517738.md
https://github.com/joneschristine225/zutbal/blob/main/keke_972016.md
https://github.com/frederickkeith158/fnhgns/blob/main/keke_647682.md
https://github.com/hawkinsrenee247/aaontk/blob/main/keke_945553.md
https://github.com/khanbridget692/ilsedv/blob/main/keke_940441.md
https://github.com/leematthew10/xhtlle/blob/main/keke_500035.md
https://github.com/armstrongrobert23/lhboev/blob/main/keke_486354.md
https://github.com/smithrichard118/ljdvnl/blob/main/keke_203596.md
https://github.com/huffmanjohn396/evdwom/blob/main/keke_441614.md
https://github.com/chanjoel249/rsmeqg/blob/main/keke_696915.md
https://github.com/perezrobert543/gtkcba/blob/main/keke_409655.md
https://github.com/rayangel993/rsbkcu/blob/main/keke_527757.md
https://github.com/cabrerajessica433/abvzdu/blob/main/keke_955746.md
https://github.com/burnsstephanie412/mnuozc/blob/main/keke_840314.md
https://github.com/calhounmarvin849/vwqqfq/blob/main/keke_478392.md
https://github.com/mccoybeth646/sekplq/blob/main/keke_868582.md
https://github.com/joneschristine225/zutbal/blob/main/keke_684011.md
https://github.com/frederickkeith158/fnhgns/blob/main/keke_852415.md
https://github.com/khanbridget692/ilsedv/blob/main/keke_769632.md
https://github.com/huffmanjohn396/evdwom/blob/main/keke_371716.md
https://github.com/rayangel993/rsbkcu/blob/main/keke_650621.md
https://github.com/burnsstephanie412/mnuozc/blob/main/keke_255349.md
https://github.com/calhounmarvin849/vwqqfq/blob/main/keke_160025.md
https://github.com/mccoybeth646/sekplq/blob/main/keke_644153.md
https://github.com/joneschristine225/zutbal/blob/main/keke_898606.md
https://github.com/hawkinsrenee247/aaontk/blob/main/keke_958895.md
https://github.com/leematthew10/xhtlle/blob/main/keke_346811.md
https://github.com/smithrichard118/ljdvnl/blob/main/keke_345265.md
https://github.com/chanjoel249/rsmeqg/blob/main/keke_918942.md
https://github.com/cabrerajessica433/abvzdu/blob/main/keke_778721.md
https://github.com/armstrongrobert23/lhboev/blob/main/keke_160338.md
https://github.com/frederickkeith158/fnhgns/blob/main/keke_357275.md
https://github.com/perezrobert543/gtkcba/blob/main/keke_224804.md
https://github.com/khanbridget692/ilsedv/blob/main/keke_867989.md
https://github.com/huffmanjohn396/evdwom/blob/main/keke_031787.md
https://github.com/mccoybeth646/sekplq/blob/main/keke_219659.md
https://github.com/rayangel993/rsbkcu/blob/main/keke_243937.md
https://github.com/burnsstephanie412/mnuozc/blob/main/keke_334060.md
https://github.com/joneschristine225/zutbal/blob/main/keke_901950.md
https://github.com/leematthew10/xhtlle/blob/main/keke_946530.md
https://github.com/calhounmarvin849/vwqqfq/blob/main/keke_062467.md
https://github.com/cabrerajessica433/abvzdu/blob/main/keke_749289.md
https://github.com/hawkinsrenee247/aaontk/blob/main/keke_763112.md
https://github.com/perezrobert543/gtkcba/blob/main/keke_154492.md
https://github.com/frederickkeith158/fnhgns/blob/main/keke_866259.md
https://github.com/armstrongrobert23/lhboev/blob/main/keke_610699.md
https://github.com/smithrichard118/ljdvnl/blob/main/keke_643073.md
https://github.com/chanjoel249/rsmeqg/blob/main/keke_104512.md
https://github.com/khanbridget692/ilsedv/blob/main/keke_529641.md
https://github.com/rayangel993/rsbkcu/blob/main/keke_502891.md
https://github.com/frederickkeith158/fnhgns/blob/main/keke_970807.md
https://github.com/cabrerajessica433/abvzdu/blob/main/keke_087980.md
https://github.com/leematthew10/xhtlle/blob/main/keke_067804.md
https://github.com/mccoybeth646/sekplq/blob/main/keke_696263.md
https://github.com/huffmanjohn396/evdwom/blob/main/keke_063173.md
https://github.com/calhounmarvin849/vwqqfq/blob/main/keke_683385.md
https://github.com/hawkinsrenee247/aaontk/blob/main/keke_267822.md
https://github.com/joneschristine225/zutbal/blob/main/keke_786497.md
https://github.com/smithrichard118/ljdvnl/blob/main/keke_173063.md
https://github.com/perezrobert543/gtkcba/blob/main/keke_343058.md
https://github.com/burnsstephanie412/mnuozc/blob/main/keke_619778.md
https://github.com/armstrongrobert23/lhboev/blob/main/keke_942953.md
https://github.com/chanjoel249/rsmeqg/blob/main/keke_378449.md
https://github.com/khanbridget692/ilsedv/blob/main/keke_049136.md
https://github.com/rayangel993/rsbkcu/blob/main/keke_171325.md
https://github.com/cabrerajessica433/abvzdu/blob/main/keke_634475.md
https://github.com/huffmanjohn396/evdwom/blob/main/keke_923066.md
https://github.com/hawkinsrenee247/aaontk/blob/main/keke_905756.md
https://github.com/burnsstephanie412/mnuozc/blob/main/keke_375422.md
https://github.com/leematthew10/xhtlle/blob/main/keke_520196.md
https://github.com/joneschristine225/zutbal/blob/main/keke_421244.md
https://github.com/smithrichard118/ljdvnl/blob/main/keke_120562.md
https://github.com/chanjoel249/rsmeqg/blob/main/keke_894916.md
https://github.com/armstrongrobert23/lhboev/blob/main/keke_858545.md
https://github.com/calhounmarvin849/vwqqfq/blob/main/keke_943034.md
https://github.com/khanbridget692/ilsedv/blob/main/keke_900579.md
https://github.com/perezrobert543/gtkcba/blob/main/keke_122977.md
。https://gitlab.com/oscaryoung9c44e/hdbfwug/-/blob/main/k_82940.md
https://gitlab.com/ivanlanew29ch/jgknsbn/-/blob/main/k_86719.md
https://gitlab.com/oliverkingrmmqw/rounakj/-/blob/main/k_42905.md
https://gitlab.com/samwebb99d9n/obzjdmo/-/blob/main/k_57932.md
https://gitlab.com/simonwoodagazf/pkseedb/-/blob/main/k_38792.md
https://gitlab.com/zackkobl3gno/ylmhwrj/-/blob/main/k_83579.md
https://gitlab.com/brucewebbuhw9o/pmvyzmt/-/blob/main/k_57782.md
https://gitlab.com/oliverkingrmmqw/rounakj/-/blob/main/k_52997.md
https://gitlab.com/ivanlanew29ch/jgknsbn/-/blob/main/k_33203.md
https://gitlab.com/oscaryoung9c44e/hdbfwug/-/blob/main/k_90416.md
https://gitlab.com/justinhilllkd0v/teizaop/-/blob/main/k_19347.md
https://gitlab.com/samwebb99d9n/obzjdmo/-/blob/main/k_51474.md
https://gitlab.com/simonwoodagazf/pkseedb/-/blob/main/k_37710.md
https://gitlab.com/victorwolf39eee/gjeeush/-/blob/main/k_58209.md
https://gitlab.com/brucewebbuhw9o/pmvyzmt/-/blob/main/k_78193.md
https://gitlab.com/zackkobl3gno/ylmhwrj/-/blob/main/k_62214.md
https://gitlab.com/oliverkingrmmqw/rounakj/-/blob/main/k_30482.md
https://gitlab.com/justinhilllkd0v/teizaop/-/blob/main/k_99118.md
https://gitlab.com/samwebb99d9n/obzjdmo/-/blob/main/k_70839.md
https://gitlab.com/ivanlanew29ch/jgknsbn/-/blob/main/k_22648.md
https://gitlab.com/oscaryoung9c44e/hdbfwug/-/blob/main/k_96889.md
https://gitlab.com/victorwolf39eee/gjeeush/-/blob/main/k_95168.md
https://gitlab.com/simonwoodagazf/pkseedb/-/blob/main/k_30127.md
https://gitlab.com/brucewebbuhw9o/pmvyzmt/-/blob/main/k_84180.md
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